Greetings from Umm Qasr (Umm Qasr, which I believe is Arabic for “It is so hot…..what the heck, ignore the label on the Campbell’s soup can….just pour and eat.”)
Okay, I have never heard of this – but it is true (seriously – I have had too many Iraqis explain it that it can’t be)….. but on the 15th night of Ramadan – they have what is called “Gkeer-gee-yah-awn”. See if this sounds familiar.
Once night falls, the kids take these bags and put them around their neck and then, all of the kids go to various houses in the neighborhood and knock on the door. When the door opens up – they sing a little song – I am not sure if it varies from north to south, but in Umm Qasr they sing this:
“Gkeer-gee-yahawn, Gkeergeeyahawn, Gkeergeeyahawn,
From last year to this year, God bless you,
You give me or we give you,
When you give to me, we take to the God house.
God’s house will give you gold and everything.
God’s house will give you gold and everything.
Give us this or we leave.”
(What was funny was watching Haleem sing it from memory - and then repeat it back to me in English….kind of like if someone were to ask you to translate “Twinkle, Twinkle Little Star” – you would (or at least I would) have to sing it – and then repeat the words back as I sang it.)
So once the kids finish singing their song on the stoop of the house – the person at the door puts little snacks and store-bought candies or popcorn into their bags that hang around their neck. And the kids smile and laugh and run away to go to another house. Hmm… it does sound kind of familiar, doesn’t it? Of course, here they don’t dress up in costumes …
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| For weeks before Gkeergeeyahawn, the kids look for bags and get excited about going and getting candy….and of course, they memorize the Gkeergeeyahawn song…. |
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| Everyone gets into the Gkeergeeyahahn spirit…. |
Now, Haleem says that most of the kids in his neighborhood (which is a little “rougher” side of town) sing it more like this: “Give us some candy or we break your window when you are not watching.” I guess that is more of the darker side of Gkeergeeyahawn. And before you get “offended” – let me tell you what I did when I was a kid….. I took a paper bag and went and got some warm….. (oops- Pastors, Mothers and Granddaughter’s “clause” invoked here….) So anyrate, that is what Gkeergee-yahawn means. I hope next time you hear it, you will be prepared to respond.
Another interesting thing happened that I was involved in – in regards to Ramadan. We were having some ac units delivered – when the driver says (over the phone), "I have to wait until after (midday) prayers to make the delivery…." and of course, all of the Iraqis were like, “Oh, yeah. Mako mishkala (no problem).” Well, I have a problem…. what is that all about?
So, here is the deal – if you go more than 22 kilometers from your place of worship - you must return back to that place BEFORE the midday prayers – or you are required to break the fast and have some food and water – but here is the kicker – you then “owe” another day of fasting at some time in the future (could be next year, could be right after Ramadan – it doesn’t matter – you “owe” another day of fasting). Why 22 km? Not sure – no one here could answer that. I even asked, “So, if you are 20 km away and don’t make it back - it is okay?” “Yep.” Something about the 22 km – I am going to try and find out – but so far….no idea. And yes, I could Google it or Wikipedia it – but I would rather find out if any of the Muslims know.
Okay now….. let’s get to the part you really want to hear about…. the FOOD, right?!?! Well, here you go. These are called Kharoof Sambusa – there is lamb in there – it is kind of like a meat baklava (SOOOO – good). Well, these have replaced lamb kebab as my favorite. You can eat them several ways – for instance, Haleem likes to put them in a samoon – and make like a sandwich. Me? I just “heat and eat”, baby. They are a little slice of Iraqi heaven
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| “Kharoof Sambusa – little meat pies from heaven…..” |
Now, just so you don’t think I eat only greasy, fattening stuff (I am trying – but they keep bringing all this other stuff for me to eat as well.) There is an abundance of dates, pears, figs, tomatoes, torshi (pickled vegetables), cucumbers, etc. Of course, I push them off to the side – so I can eat the fattening stuff – but, hey… they are here. Actually, Mohandis Fakhri brought me a bowl of dates and I ate them like candy throughout the day.
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| Something all men crave – a couple of hot dates!! (c’mon, admit it – you were expecting this from me, weren’t you?) |
So, what else has “Mr. Wide” been up to, you may ask? Well, remember a few weeks ago – I told you about the little area I am calling, “Umm Qasr Knot?” (The “knot” refers to a nautical term – since I am here working with the Navy – but it also stands for “NOT Umm Qasr”) Well, we finally have some of the stuff in place and I have gotten with one of the local guys to set up an area to sell coffee (normally, Armed Forces Services Exchange would do this – but for several reasons – mostly because we are a small camp out in the boonies, we are having a local guy do it). So he has been working on his area. Here is a photo of the front of his shop “in progress”
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| Coffee, Tea or Me? |
Actually, this is so cool – he has almost put the cover over the whole top now – and we are hoping he will open up today – or maybe tomorrow. Also, the Iraqis LOVE (ahab) to put lights up. Year-round, they turn the lights on and it is really kind of cool. Hopefully, I will have more pictures for you next week on this – but they are working very hard to get it up and running. And they have already told me that I get to be the first customer (which I guess is an honor, right? But then, I also guess it depends upon how much they charge). But they will sell smoothies, iced coffees, hot coffees, etc. Eventually, they are going to open up a bakery and a little grocery store. I hope the camp will support this – as there really are no other options for taking a break here.
So all right, you are probably asking yourself, “Self, with all of this food and coffee and learning about Ramadan (and of course, writing these “oh – so – clever updates”…) - when the heck does Wade ever work??” Well, that is a good question. So – I thought I would show you a little of what I have been doing. First, remember a few weeks ago – I showed you the very tall concrete spires? My two wonderful local engineers, Fakhri and Amjad – along with your hero – have been working very hard on getting all the dimensions and all of the existing buildings in that area. There were also some very rough buildings that need renovation and other items. The first step in repairing the buildings is to come up with some ideas – and a “master plan” for the compound. The best way to do that, is to get to “know” the area. I do that by going and investigating all the buildings and then putting them on a scale drafting drawing. So here is a “faux representation” of the plan that I have been working on. (Please note – that I have put these way out of proportion for showing you this – some things are not in the right place, etc. – so understand that this is not the real drawing – and some (or all??) buildings have been moved….and some are not even there!! So this is NOT an operational security problem, okay?) But here is some of what we have been doing….
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| Remember the concrete “spires” – they are on the right side of this drawing (the tall “boxes”….and yes, I have done all of these drawings myself.....and that is a soccer field up in the corner….But this is the “first step” in making a “master plan” for a large complex – you start with any existing buildings, make an overall plan – and then incorporate new buildings into the plan – and then work up details (costs, schedules, contracting documents, etc.) As I said, drawings, buildings, etc. are not what they really are size-wise or placement-wise – so this is just to show you some of the “type” of work I have been doing. |
And of course, as I go investigate these buildings and areas - the best part is I get to wear a 35 lb. vest all the time I am walking and taking measurements and checking things out. Of course, we have had a “break in the weather” - it has not gotten over 115 degrees this week. (Believe it or not, it does make a difference…. Not a HUGE difference, but you can tell after about 15 minutes outside….)
I just find it hard to describe how nasty it is when it is over 120 degrees outside and the wind is blowing about 30 miles per hour. I don’t know if I have shared this with you all – but when I go to my hootch, I have to walk by all of these air conditioning units – and they are blowing out hot air. Well, a couple of times, I have walked by the ac unit and gotten a blast of hot air – and then walked around the end of the CHU and the hot wind is blowing so nasty – that I can’t tell the difference. So if you are curious what it feels like, the next time it is around 100 degrees outside – go stand at the “exhaust” of your ac unit. That is what it is like….. yuck.
Well, it is probably time I go. Thank you for sharing my adventures with me….I look forward to the time I can tell you in person…..
God bless America
Mr. Wide
مهندس واد بروير
And.......... Bonus Photo……
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| Bad boys, bad boys……whatcha gonna do? |
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